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Decision Guide

How to Compare a Sewer Line Repair Quote

Two bids are only comparable when they describe the same job. This checklist puts them side by side.

By Angeleno Sewer Line Repair · Updated

A sewer line repair quote is only useful if it says exactly what will be done: the method, how many feet, how deep, what gets restored, which permits are included and who pulls them, and whether the line is filmed before and after. Compare quotes line by line on those items, from the same camera footage, before comparing totals.

The questions owners bring to Angeleno Sewer Line Repair tend to sound alike: is this price reasonable, why is one bid twice the other, should I line or replace. Almost every time, the answer starts with the same move, which is to break each bid into the same pieces. This guide gives you those pieces, the City fees that should appear when work reaches the street, and the warning signs that a quote is not ready to sign.

Start from the same video

The most common reason quotes do not compare is that each contractor saw a different line, or none at all. Ask for a camera inspection first, keep a copy of the video and report, and give the same footage to everyone bidding. A sewer camera inspection that shows each defect’s distance from the cleanout and its depth lets every bidder price the same problem.

If a bidder wants to run their own camera, that is reasonable. Ask them to give you their footage too. If two videos disagree, ask why. The inspection report guide explains the terms you will see.

The line-item checklist

Put each bid into this table. Where a bid is silent on an item, ask; silence usually means it is not included.

Line itemWhat the quote should sayWhy it matters
MethodSpot repair, open-trench replacement, lining (CIPP) or pipe bursting, and why that method fits the footageMethods solve different problems. Lining cannot fix a belly or a collapse.
Footage and limitsHow many feet, from where to where (house, cleanout, property line, main)A bid that stops at the property line is not comparable with one that reaches the main.
DepthApproximate depth at the work points, and how deep trenches or pits will be protectedTrenches 5 feet and deeper need a protective system under Cal/OSHA rules, which adds cost.
Pipe and materialsNew pipe type and size, fittings, liner type if liningLets you see whether the scope matches the method.
Access and cleanoutWhether a new cleanout, access pit or launch and receiving pits are includedTrenchless work still needs access points.
RestorationExactly what is replaced: soil, sod, concrete, driveway, pavers, landscaping, and to what standardRestoration often explains the gap between two bids.
Private-side permitLADBS plumbing permit (or your city’s), included and pulled by the contractorRequired for repair or replacement, and for the rebate.
Street work and S-PermitIf work is past the property line: S-Permit, City inspection fees, street restoration fee, traffic control, listed separatelyThe City issues S-Permits for that work only to a Bonded Sewer Contractor.
Video before and afterPre-work and post-work camera inspection, with copies to youProves the result. The City requires before and after CCTV for lining and bursting in the street.
Timeline and downtimeStart date, working days, and how long the house will be without sewer serviceDowntime differs a lot between methods.
Exclusions and changesWhat happens if they find something unexpected, and how extra work is pricedChange orders are where budgets break.
Payment scheduleDown payment and progress payments tied to completed workCalifornia limits home improvement down payments (see below).

When the work reaches the street

In the City of Los Angeles, the owner is responsible for the whole lateral, including the lower section from the property line to the main in the street. If the defect is in that section, the bid changes character.

Any repair, replacement or rehabilitation of the lateral in the public right-of-way needs a Bureau of Engineering S-Permit, and the City issues it only to an active Bonded Sewer Contractor. The Bureau’s posted fee schedule includes:

  • Sewer S-Permit: $273, plus City surcharges of 7% and 3%.
  • House connection sewer inspection: $2.84 per linear foot.
  • Additional inspection trip: $42 each.
  • Street Damage Restoration Fee, when pavement is cut, per square foot, set by the street’s classification and how recently it was resurfaced. The posted rates are $8.24 per square foot on a local street and $19.44 on a select street.

The Bureau reviews these fees at least annually and points to its current Standard Fee List, so confirm them at permit time. Other fees, for curb or sidewalk inspection, for example, can apply depending on the job. The City fees are small next to the construction itself: cutting the street, shoring, traffic control and paving. Those vary too much by street to publish a reliable range. A good street bid lists the permit, inspection, restoration fee and traffic control as separate lines, so you can see them.

If your bids do not mention the street but the footage shows the defect past the property line, ask directly. More on the split is in sewer lateral repair under the street and the sewer permit guide.

Who pulls the permit

The contractor doing the work should pull the permit in its own name, and the quote should say so. For the right-of-way, the S-Permit is issued to the Bonded Sewer Contractor doing the work. The Bureau’s general conditions do allow a plumber to pull the S-Permit for a reconnection at the property line, which is a narrower job.

LA Sanitation’s repair rebate of up to $2,500 requires a final permit signed by the City’s inspector, a licensed and bonded sewer contractor, and an itemized invoice showing the contractor’s license number, materials and labor, the date and proof of payment. A bid that leaves out the permit can cost you the rebate as well.

Is the price in a reasonable range?

As typical budgeting ranges for Los Angeles-area projects as of October 2026, not quotes: a spot repair of one section on private property runs $1,500–$8,000, full open-trench replacement $5,000 to $25,000 or more, lining a lateral of about 50 feet $6,000–$15,000, and pipe bursting $6,000–$25,000 per job. A bid outside those ranges is not automatically wrong. Depth, length, a driveway over the line or street work can push a job well past the typical range, and a short, shallow run under lawn can sit below it.

The replacement cost guide explains what moves the number, and the trenchless cost guide covers lining and bursting.

When bids propose different methods

If one contractor proposes lining and another proposes digging, do not choose by price alone. Ask each to explain the choice with the footage in front of you.

  • A belly holding water is a reason to dig and re-lay that section at a proper slope. Lining follows the sag; it does not correct it.
  • A collapsed or badly deformed section usually rules lining out.
  • Roots at sound joints, cracks and minor offsets can often be lined, if the pipe is open enough.
  • Bursting needs room for launch and receiving pits and mostly follows the old alignment.

A spot repair makes sense when the camera shows one failed section in an otherwise sound line. The repair vs replacement guide goes deeper.

Red flags

  • No video. A recommendation for replacement without footage you can watch.
  • “No digging at all.” Trenchless methods still need access points and some restoration.
  • “Permanent” root fixes. Cutting or treating roots restores flow, but roots return through open joints until the joint is repaired.
  • Lining offered for a belly or collapse. The method does not fit the defect.
  • No permits, or a request that you pull them. Especially for street work.
  • A lump sum with no line items. You cannot compare it or check it.
  • Pressure to sign tonight. If the line is flowing, the repair decision can usually wait for the video and a second bid.
  • A large deposit. California’s Contractors State License Board says a home improvement down payment generally cannot exceed 10% of the contract price or $1,000, whichever is less, and later payments should not run ahead of the work done.

Before you sign

Check the contractor’s license with the Contractors State License Board. Get the scope in writing, including the line items above, the restoration standard, the start date and the sewer downtime. Ask that the post-work video and the finaled permit be handed over at the end; both matter for the rebate and for resale. And keep every document with the house records. A clear quote makes the work easier to check, and a contractor who writes one is usually easier to work with.

Questions about your own line?

Phones answered 24/7, every day. A camera inspection answers most of them.

Questions people ask

Why are my sewer repair quotes so far apart?

Usually because they describe different jobs. One may line the pipe while another digs it up, one may stop at the property line while another includes the street, and one may include driveway restoration and permits while another leaves them out. Put the bids into the same line items before comparing totals.

Should I get the camera video before getting quotes?

Yes. A bid written from video, with defects located by distance and depth, can be compared against another bid from the same footage. A bid written without video is a guess about what is in the ground, and it gives you nothing to check the scope against.

Who should pull the permit for sewer work in Los Angeles?

The contractor doing the work, in the contractor's name. Private-side work needs an LADBS plumbing permit. Any repair, replacement or rehabilitation in the public right-of-way needs a Bureau of Engineering S-Permit, which the City issues only to an active Bonded Sewer Contractor. A finaled permit is also required for LA Sanitation's repair rebate.

Call (213) 782-3753